About me

...Who could think, that Olena was born and has grown in Kharkov, in completely not rocky city, in absolutely unsportsmanlike, and especially not in alpinistic-climbing family?

Sports, however, since the earliest childhood were included into its life. Since five years of the beginning she seriously engaged in sports gymnastics. By 13 years she was the candidate for the master of sports, was a member of a youth combined team of the USSR.

Once in sports hall of the KPI Olena has seen "abnormal" which climbed on a stone vertical wall.

It was very interesting for her who they are and what they are doing.

It was not enough for her to receive only answers. She decided to try to climb the wall.

So in 1995 it’s the first time of when she has known what is a  rock-climbing.

And very soon itself became one of these "abnormal".

Actually, Olena has got in climbing section. As rock-climbing - only "appendage" of mountaneering was considered in those days, to rocky preparation was not given due attention. To show, on what the beginning sportsman-climber is capable, it was possible only during visiting of Caucasus, for it she was trained.

During 2 years Olena was engaged in mountaineering while Climbing Wall of European level have not built at Sport Arena of KhAI.

Then Olena seriously has engaged  in sport climbing.

And only in one year she was the master of sports of Ukraine, in one year more - she was the master of sports of the international level.

During the period from 1996 till 2001 Olena has devoted speed climbing until rock-climbing have not excluded from the program of X-Games.

Speed Climbing is popular basically in the countries of the former USSR, the Europe likes difficult climbing. Here difficulty and bouldering are popular. However the main part of competitions passes in the Europe, and therefore prizes of speed competitions was very small. When you took first place probably only to cover only travel expenses. And only X-Games covered everything.

However Olena does not regret, that practically 6 years was engaged exclusively in speed. « Speed has given me very good base for difficulty – a good visual memory, dynamics of movements, jumps (it for me is especially actual: my growth only 152 sm) ».

From 2002 till 2005 there was not any possibility to have normal training meeting between comps. However in August 2005 our group managed to be in Crimea during 20 days.

Olena was the first of the Ukrainian girls has taken a category 8а – Escadron route at Nikita rocks. The Fiesta and Alexis routes further have followed. In October of the same year in France (St.Leger) four more eights were done. During short spring 2006 visiting of Crimea Olena has added to itself in an arsenal 8а «connection».

It was the start. What she has now, see another sections.


Eugene Sadovsky, Ukrainian Climbing Team manager